My First Pilgrimage To Israel

I wrote the below in 2009, right after my first trip to the Holy Lands. I submitted it to my church magazine, but the church was busy in the process of preparing to elect bishops, so there was not a lot of time (or print space) available for my fairly long article.

As I read it, I still feel an urgency to speak out about what I saw and about the plight of the Palestinians. So I post here my paper, "A Pilgrimage to Israel."


A Pilgrimage to Israel
Submitted by Rev. Cassandra G. Perry,
Williams Institutional CME Church, New York, NY


On February 8, 2009, I left New York City for a Pilgrimage to Israel. “The Holy Land, The Holy People” seemed like the trip I’d always longed to take. Although it had been advertised as a “pilgrimage,” I regarded it just as an opportunity to take a trip to the Holy Land. I didn’t understand the nature of pilgrimage, and was about to be surprised when this turned out to be much more than just a vacation trip.

The trip was sponsored by SBS, the Society for Biblical Studies, a Massachusetts-based non-profit organization. I’d heard about SBS for some time. As I checked them out, I discovered that our seminary had planned a pilgrimage with them for January 2009. The January trip didn’t fit my schedule, but a February trip was available. I joined with 21 other pilgrims, most of whom were members of the Holsten Conference of the United Methodist Church.

SBS’s stated mission is to:
- inform biblical scholarship,
- redeem pilgrimage, and
- renew the mission of the Church.

Our Biblical Scholarship was informed as we got a grasp of the geographical, social, historical, archaeological and cultural settings of the Bible. We got a good overview of modern Biblical scholarship, including a very basic introduction to archaeology and its importance for both clergy and laypeople. We were also introduced to some key issues in the study of Christian origins.

The idea of Pilgrimage was revisited (or redeemed) as we, individually and collectively, found our spiritual growth enhanced. We became personally familiar with Christianity in the Holy Land and had the opportunity to look with new eyes at the role of the church today. On this Pilgrimage we also had an opportunity to gain first-hand understanding of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, its impact on neighboring countries, and to see some possibilities for peacemaking.

In one of his lectures to the group, the Rev. Peter J. Miano, Executive Director of SBS, spoke about renewing the Mission of the Church. First, he defined mission as:
1) Productive Mission is Visionary. What is the vision? Does it inspire?
2) Productive Mission is Pragmatic. Does it work? What does or doesn’t work? What could work?
3) Effective Mission is Adaptable and Innovative.
4) Effective mission is Relational. It requires community.
5) Effective mission occurs on the ground, not in the sky. Mission is not institutional.
6) Effective mission is Biblically based. It must be delineated and self-consciously identified as Christian.
7) Effective Mission is empowering.
8) Effective mission is accountable (and as a corollary, that’s why being in community requires accountability).
9) Effective mission is contextual. One must be mindful of the world in which one lives and works.
10) Finally, before we can be involved in any kind of mission, we must understand the context. For us, as pilgrims in Israel, it was important to understand how the social context is distorted by the political context.

What I took away from the lecture was that the popular triumphalist view of mission may merit some reconsideration. Rather than (or ideally, in addition to) triumphalism, effective, relational mission is imperative for the future of the Church. Triumphally preaching the Word is important, but it’s not enough; it’s only the beginning. If the Word is successfully preached, it will call us to action. It will leave us wondering “so what?” In my mind, that “so what” is the beginning of mission.

Against that theological backdrop, we toured Israel. Some of my reactions are chronicled at http://cassandraperry.blogspot.com (in the February 2009 and November 2010 postings), so I won’t repeat them all here. We left NYC at 10:30 pm on the evening of February 8, on a 12-hour flight to Amman, Jordan. Because of the time change, we arrived in Amman at 4:30 on Monday afternoon, February 9. We cleared immigration, met our driver, and got to our hotel in time for dinner and some after-dinner relaxation.

The next day, we started out early, headed for the Zarqa River. Today we know the Zarqa River as the Jabbok, the place Jacob crossed just before he wrestled with God and didn’t let go until he got his blessing (Gen 32:22-26). We stopped there and had Bible study, then continued on to Jericho, to look at the very tree Zacchaeus climbed up to see Jesus! The following day, we went up Mount Nebo, where Moses looked out onto the Promised Land. We also went to Jerash, the site of ancient Roman ruins. Although I teach Church History, I’d never delved deeply into the history of the Roman Empire (even though the two subjects are almost inextricably intertwined). As I saw the Roman ruins in the midst of this Arab country, the cultural juxtaposition made the past come alive. The status of the land’s original residents living under foreign occupation became clearer to me. I didn’t know that it would become even more real.

We continued our journey, seeing evidence of Roman occupation, learning the history of the land, learning about Jesus’ people. As we traveled and studied and looked and learned, we became aware of the fact that many of the places where Jesus lived – Bethlehem, Nazareth, Capernaum, Jerusalem – are situated in present-day Palestine. As we traveled through Palestine, we continually saw present-day Israeli occupation. It made a tremendous impact on us. By the time we entered Israel on the 4th day, we had come to understand that Jordan, Israel, and Palestine are all among the Holy Lands. As we crossed from Jordan to Israel, we realized that we were entering a Holy Land still occupied by an oppressive government.

Despite the unfortunate political realities, when we entered Israel and Palestine there was something indescribable about walking where Jesus walked. We went to Nazareth, to the Basilica of the Annunciation, to the Shepherd’s Fields, and to various places throughout Galilee. Capernaum is on the north shore of the Galilee, and there we visited the remains of the very synagogue where Jesus preached (Mark 1:21-22). We even had a praise party on the Sea of Galilee! From Nazareth, we went to the Mount of the Beatitudes, and then finally on to Jerusalem. From the Mount of Olives, we looked out over the entire city of Jerusalem, while vendors offered to sell us rides on camels and donkeys. We finally came down from the Mount of Olives, walked through Jerusalem, then went up into a private site in the Garden of Gethsemane where we celebrated Communion.

Our first walk through Jerusalem was on Saturday, February 14, and included a visit to the Western Wall. As we walked, we visited the Convent of the Sisters of Zion. Underneath the Convent are pieces of pavement called the Lithostratos – the pavement of justice. In the pavement, one can see the grooves made by the Roman chariots, and one can also see the remains of a game the Roman soldiers played with the lives of condemned prisoners. Among the things they did to demean the prisoners was dressing them in purple robes, adorning them with a crown of thorns, beating them, and forcing them to carry their own crosses to their crucifixion. As the guide explained these things to us, the air became electric as we remembered our Scriptures and visualized the guards doing these same things to Jesus before His death. After the tour, we assembled in a chapel adjacent to the holy sites, and there, in Jerusalem, I was privileged to share a word about Our Savior’s Love.

Because that first trip was on the Jewish Sabbath (no pictures are allowed at Jewish holy sites on the Sabbath) and because so many of us wanted pictures at the Western Wall, we returned there the following day. This afforded us two opportunities to pray at the Western Wall. We also had the opportunity to walk parts of the Via Dolorosa, the route Christ journeyed during his trial and execution. We ended up in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which contains the slab upon which Jesus’ body was laid and anointed with oil; the Empty Tomb and Golgotha, the site many believe is the actual Calvary, are also in this church.

As Jerusalem is home to three Abrahamic faiths, we also visited the Dome of the Rock, built on the site where Muhammad is said to have ascended into heaven, talked with Moses and Jesus, and then returned to earth.

I can only list some of the places we saw; there is no way to adequately describe the experiences we had, the love we shared, or the transformation we experienced during our 10 days in the Holy Lands. We were a group of 21 people, mostly clergy, and we wondered to each other how we could ever find ways to adequately share this event with our congregations back home. All of us took loads of pictures, but we agreed that neither pictures nor words could begin to convey the experience we had. We decided it would be like trying to describe a sunset to a blind person – we simply did not possess the tools necessary to relate this experience to others. As soon as I got back, I busied myself organizing another trip. If God allows it, I’ll be returning with a group of friends and fellow CMEs on a similar trip from February 7-17, 2010. (If you’re interested or want more information about the 2010 trip, please send an email to cgperry@att.net)

For me, the highlights of the trip were our Praise party on the Sea of Galilee, celebrating Communion in the Garden of Gethsemane, preaching in Jerusalem, and the opportunity to worship in Bethlehem with Palestinian Christians. There were many transformative points in the trip, but some of the most moving had to do with the Palestinian people. We studied our Bibles and our history, and as we did, it slowly became apparent to us that Palestine was the land where Jesus lived. We continually saw remnants of ancient Roman oppression, but we also saw how today’s Palestinian people live under Israeli oppression. When we visited Palestinian “refugee” camps, I couldn’t help but call them “concentration” camps. The differences in the standard of living inside and outside the camps was noticeable; the barbed wire, armed guards, and concrete barriers that separated the people was noticeable; and the lack of freedom of movement was noticeable.

We met with members of various groups dedicated to promoting improved relations between Palestinians and Israelis. Our experiences were perhaps one-sided, as we met Palestinians who longed for peace, and Israelis who wanted to take claim to all the land in the area, and who used Scripture to justify the killing of Palestinian children.

There is a 35-foot high wall surrounding Bethlehem and Jerusalem. Palestinians who live inside the walled area have to pass through security checkpoints every time they want to go into our out of the cities. As tourists, we only had to stop at the checkpoints, at which time armed guards mounted our bus, walked through it, and checked all our passports before we could continue on. This happened on a daily basis, every time we entered or left the city, and we were told that ours was actually preferential treatment. One of my students was in the January seminary group, and she told me they had to get off the bus, go inside the checkpoint area, and go through an inspection before being allowed to get back on the bus and continue their journey. Every time we entered or left Jerusalem or Bethlehem, we were made aware that we were visiting a Holy Land occupied by an oppressive government.

Still, I am grateful for the experience. According to the Rev. Miano’s definitions of mission, the trip was an effective mission trip. It left me wondering “what’s next?” It left me hungering to take a next step, to advocate for social justice in the Holy Lands.

For me, the first step is another pilgrimage -- not just a sight-seeing trip to Israel, but an opportunity to go and get a glimpse of what life must have been like for people in occupied Palestine. I’ve told people about my experience, and now I’d like to help make that experience available to others. When I first mentioned the idea of mission work in Israel, some people suggested that Africa or the Caribbean would be more appropriate places for a person of African descent to engage in mission work. While I have done mission work in both Africa and the Caribbean, I think that mission work should not be limited to people who look like me. As Christians, we seek a closer relationship with God through Jesus of Nazareth, the same Jesus who preached a transformative Gospel message. It seems appropriate to visit the lands where He lived, and continue to carry that transformative Gospel message. Glaring social injustice is a way of life for Palestinians living in Israel and the occupied territories. There is an opportunity for Christian people to become involved in the circumstances of the Palestinian people – or, as I call them, Jesus’ cousins.

The next step is raising awareness. When we visited the Palestinian refugee camps, our Palestinian hosts expressed concern that Americans are not helping them. Palestine represents and opportunity for the Christian church to become active and engaged. The whole world is watching, and wondering why American Christians aren’t doing more. As our guide said, “How can you say you don’t know? Why don’t you know?” Though I consider myself fairly well-informed, until this trip I had no idea how bad things were. I was aware of the issues, but somewhere in my heart, I probably believed the hype I hear on the news. (For instance, when our Royal Jordanian Air pilot started speaking in Arabic at the beginning of our flight home, I heard the phrase “Allahu Akhbar”. For a moment, my stomach flipped as I remembered this to be the last phrase uttered by many suicide bombers. While that may be true, “Allahu Akhbar” simply means “God is Great.” Our pilot was saying it because he, like every pilot on every observant Muslim airline, publicly prays to God before starting any trip). While Muslim fundamentalists and terrorists dominate the news we see and hear, the plight of Palestinian Christians goes largely ignored. Early in 2009, a few Palestinians launched Qassam rockets into Israel. This is a heinous act, designed to spread fear and chaos. Ultimately, three Israeli civilians were killed. Qassam Rockets are about the size of large model rockets that Western teenagers can buy in hobby stores. In response to these childlike (yet lethal) rocket attacks, the Israelis responded with the full strength of the Israeli military, killing over 2,000 Palestinians, many of whom were women and children. The taking of human life is never to be condoned, and the cause of peace is not furthered by the massacre of innocents.

As Christians, we have an opportunity to become aware, to become informed, and to take meaningful action. Compared to the rest of the world, we have an abundance of means and of economic and political power – but we are silent on issues that affect the world. We cannot change everything, but we can change something. We have seen a miraculous new beginning with the election of the 44th President of the US, who ran on an agenda of hope and change. Perhaps this new administration can become a self-fulfilling prophecy – the door to change has been opened; now let each of us walk through it. On the other side of the door to change, it does not yet appear WHAT could be! The fact that the US, through Secretary of State Clinton, is finally advocating a two-state solution in Israel leads to the guarded hope that perhaps, during our lifetimes, there can be peace in all the earth.

It has been decades since I wrote poetry, but I was moved to try during the flight back to the US. As stated before, it’s impossible to put this experience into words, and the following is just an awkward attempt to express a glorious experience.




Reflections About My Trip

We stood on the banks of Jordan,
Held crosses of olive wood.
We even went to that Biblical stream and
Stood on the rock where Moses stood.

We sailed on the Sea of Galilee
Took bread and wine at Gethsemane.
We saw Biblical places, mighty and small,
Feeling the Lord’s presence among them all.

This wasn’t a journey for personal pleasure –
It wasn’t about buying trinkets and treasures.
God’s people are hurting – they must be set free.
I’m joining the effort – will you join with me?

To preach and to pray, glorifying God’s Son,
Telling the world there’s much more to be done.
We can’t be complacent – there’s too much at stake.
The Lion prowls, with destruction in his wake.

God’s people have needs and we have the means
To heal, to build up – to do so many things.
To show through our actions, our words and our power
That Jesus is with us, even still in this hour.

They’re from Southern Israel: Nazareth, Galilee –
Yes, some could be terrorists; they’re Jesus’ cousins to me.
Daring to stand and to fight for their homes
Has left them appearing and feeling alone.

Guards. Checkpoints. A 35-foot wall.
Systematic, racist oppression. But wait, that’s not all!
Displaced from their homelands to this refugee mess –
Generations now live there, ignored by the West.

So now let us be ready and willing to go.
Let’s spread the news so the whole world will know
That Jesus, Our Savior, is Lord above ALL.
Let’s carry this message and not drop the ball.

Written between Amman and Chicago.
2/18/09